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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:48 pm 
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If you have a general processing question post it here.

Image

I used three adjustment brushes. The top left lightened the tree after applying a grad filter to bring out the sky. The middle one was to tone down that large section of tree that was off yellow and too bright for the rest of the scene and the one on the right was to boost the little highlights where the sun kissed the tops of the trees.

Image

There were two grad filters applied(not pictured). One to tone down the sky straight along the horizon and another over the rocks on the bottom left.

Here are the detail panels:

Image Image Image

The image was then run through Nik's Viveza 2 for slight colour adjustments. Giving this final result:

Image

The one thing I forgot to do was run some recovery to get a little more out of the cloud hotspot on the right. I played with it while putting this post together and it helped.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:50 pm 
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Nice, I'll try putting up something similar soon


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 2:09 pm 
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Very informative, I like it.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 2:31 pm 
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hey that's pretty neat. always wondered how people got such nice skies. is there a similar gradient filter technique in photoshop?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 3:35 pm 
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Delsorbo wrote:
hey that's pretty neat. always wondered how people got such nice skies. is there a similar gradient filter technique in photoshop?


I would do a curve/levels adjustment and then have it masked with gradient applied to the mask. Lightroom makes it so much easier


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 3:40 pm 
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Fantastic idea for a thread!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:18 pm 
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MustGoFaster wrote:
Fantastic idea for a thread!

+1


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 11:09 pm 
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Delsorbo wrote:
hey that's pretty neat. always wondered how people got such nice skies. is there a similar gradient filter technique in photoshop?


There's actually a graduated filter tool in Adobe Camera Raw. Very simple to use.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 12:03 am 
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MustGoFaster wrote:
Fantastic idea for a thread!


A better idea would be to have multiple threads, one for Lightroom users, one for Photoshop, one for Elements, and one for Aperture...those who use "B" don't care about "A" or want to read about it. Just a suggestion to improve the usefulness of the topic.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 12:53 am 
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Orrrr instead of complaining just take what you can get from people being generous showing you how they do their work


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 2:27 pm 
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mikefellh wrote:
MustGoFaster wrote:
Fantastic idea for a thread!


A better idea would be to have multiple threads, one for Lightroom users, one for Photoshop, one for Elements, and one for Aperture...those who use "B" don't care about "A" or want to read about it. Just a suggestion to improve the usefulness of the topic.


I disagree. If I see someone post how they do something in Aperture, I will likely be able to translate that and figure out how to do the same in Lightroom.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 3:34 pm 
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qualdoth wrote:
mikefellh wrote:
MustGoFaster wrote:
Fantastic idea for a thread!


A better idea would be to have multiple threads, one for Lightroom users, one for Photoshop, one for Elements, and one for Aperture...those who use "B" don't care about "A" or want to read about it. Just a suggestion to improve the usefulness of the topic.


I disagree. If I see someone post how they do something in Aperture, I will likely be able to translate that and figure out how to do the same in Lightroom.


I agree with the disagreement. Why have a myriad of threads when this one still has only one, ONE, processing example? That's rhetorical. Unnecessary redundancy on a forum that doesn't have near enough traffic to justify it.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 3:36 pm 
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especially considering amount of information on photography or processing techniques


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:15 pm 
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ions wrote:
qualdoth wrote:
mikefellh wrote:
MustGoFaster wrote:
Fantastic idea for a thread!


A better idea would be to have multiple threads, one for Lightroom users, one for Photoshop, one for Elements, and one for Aperture...those who use "B" don't care about "A" or want to read about it. Just a suggestion to improve the usefulness of the topic.


I disagree. If I see someone post how they do something in Aperture, I will likely be able to translate that and figure out how to do the same in Lightroom.


I agree with the disagreement. Why have a myriad of threads when this one still has only one, ONE, processing example? That's rhetorical. Unnecessary redundancy on a forum that doesn't have near enough traffic to justify it.


I agree with the agreement on the disagreement.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:28 pm 
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I disagree with the agreement on the disagreement :?

Actually I don't have a clue


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:37 pm 
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Ok, now you guys are stealing my lines


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 5:24 pm 
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PotatoEYE wrote:
Ok, now you guys are stealing my lines


This forum needs more than one sh!t disturber.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 5:27 pm 
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Anyway, here's a Lightroom 3 technique I use for "boring" sunsets when there's no drama in the sky due to the lack of clouds.

To begin with, here is what the before/after looks like

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=1-before-after.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/1-before-after.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


1. I set my in-camera processing to neutral with everything zeroed. Upon importing raw files into LR I have set a default processing settings locked to my camera's serial number. You can do it by changing LR Develop module settings and saving it as default (go to file menu - choose Develop and click on Set Default Settings), you can google the details, I am just going to focus on actual processing.

Here's what my Camera Calibration settings look like:

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=2-default.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/2-default.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

This will give you a good overall start, mind you, it will not guarantee that the picture you see on computer screen be the same as on camera LCD. Use Original Manufacturer's software if you are that anal about it.

2. Next thing I do is correct any flaws of the lens that I can see by zooming in at 100-200%, i.e. chromatic aberrations and fringing.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=3-correction.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/3-correction.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Usually going to Lens Corrections and ticking the Enable Profile Corrections works, but there is a limited amount of profiles available. You can always click on Manual and correct the problems yourself.

3. After I've dealt with problems that might cause even more problems later on, I go on to the Basic panel.
Switch my white balance (shade usually works great for these sort of sunsets)
Adjust the contrast to my liking, do minor tweaks if needed. If you shoot it right in the first place, i.e. without blowing out colour (red mainly), you should be ok with just minimum tweaks. I add a little bit of punch to tones microcontrast with Clarity and add some more colour depth with Vibrance (adds colour to the less saturated tones) as well as Saturation (boosts overall saturation of colours regardless of intensity). Keep in mind that this part can easily get out of hand and explode in your face.

4. Now I am mostly fixing areas I don't like. That involves graduated filters, adjustment brush or whatever there is available. In this particular example I will use a simple graduated filter.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=5-grad.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/5-grad.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Click on the icon to the left of the brush, circled in red in the example picture above. Pull down the filter from the top. Try to keep it level with the horizon if you have a relatively flat one. In order to better see the area affected by the gradation I usually bring the exposure slider on the filter to roughly -1 or -2. Later you can always take it back to zero. I add saturation to the sky as well as some more colour! You can just click on the preset tone and use it as a starting point. I find that most yellow tones work great for sunsets like these, all it needs is a bit more saturation.

5. Once I am done with the sky I will adjust the overall tones with Split Toning effect. What it does is add chosen tones to either Shadows or Highlights. This is a great tool to give some mood to the picture you're working on.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=6-split.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/6-split.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

This tool works with preset tones as well, or just use the hue slider. I adjust saturation on both tones to make it pop. You can also play with balancing the effect intensity between shadows and highlights.

6. When I am done with overall tone and adjustments I switch over to sharpening. Detail panel has great tools. I find that keeping moderate to high amount, small radius, medium detail and medium masking works magic for landscapes. Note, you have to zoom in at 100% or more to see the results on your image. There is also a small zoom window available, which I switch off anyway. For masking the small details (excluding them from the effect of sharpening) you can hold Alt on PC or Opt on Mac (I hope I got it right) and move the Masking slider, you will then see a b&w version with affected areas in white and unaffected in black.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=7-detail.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/7-detail.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Adjust any noise reduction if needed. Note that on screen at 100% zoom it looks more grainy than it will once you print it.

Finally, once you are happy and satisfied with the photo it's time to take it out into the world. Let people enjoy it as much as you do. Export it as Jpeg file or any other format that LR allows you to. I have a preset set up for WEB.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=8-export.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/8-export.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Don't forget to do the export sharpening on the file, depending on whether it is printed on paper or presented on screen there are different options. I find that medium sharpening settings work best, but sometimes you can go either way.

So, I hope some of you will find this useful and I am sorry if I missed something. Just ask, we are all here to help each other.

Note: there are various ways to do similar things and if you do it differently then share your own techniques as well.

Now go and print that great photo of yours, there is nothing like instant gratification and pleasure of looking at a nice print.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 1:44 am 
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Next up is a little Photoshop technique with a bunch of tricks.

I specifically chose a different genre for this example. You can apply same technique to pretty much anything. One thing to note: your Photoshop might look different, but it does usually have the same tools (I use CS5). You can achieve same results other ways in Photoshop, I am just showing the way I like doing it. I also assume you know your basics of Photoshop, if there is something you don't know Google is your answer.

I'll start off with the photo I want to process.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

1. Duplicate the layer by either pressing Ctrl+J or using the drop down menu

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=2-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/2-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Click on the top layer. Go to Image - Adjustments - Shadows/Highlights, a new menu will appear where you can use sliders to adjust the effects.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=3-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/3-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Tick the preview button and you will start seeing the adjustments on your image. I use Amount first, then increase Tonal Width and adjust Radius to make it look more natural. I also add some Midtone Contrast to bring back the washed out contrast. Click Ok

I then add a layer mask to the shadows/highlights layer by clicking on Masks and the add pixel mask icon, click on Invert if you want to paint in the area of the effect. I choose a brush with soft edge and paint in the effect on the area I want to be affected (make sure white is selected as foreground colour: Masks work this way - white=affected, black=not affected). I also add a pixel or two of feathering. Finally, I reduce the opacity of the layer to make it blend in more with the original, making it look more natural.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

2. I stamp the visible layers by pressing Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E, all this does is sums up all the layers beneath into one layer without deleting the layers below. I then add a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer with a bit of de-saturation effect.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/5.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Because I want to keep the viewer's eye on the main subject I need to add a mask to the effect. Go to Masks and grab a brush, now this might seem confusing here, but as you paint with black on the main subject you pretty much deleting the effect of the de-saturation. Once again, add some feathering.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/6.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

3. I stamp the layers again (Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E)
To make things pop a bit more I need to add a bit of contrast. I duplicate the layer by pressing Ctrl+J and set its blending mode to Soft Light. At this point it looks way over the top, but I know all I need to do is take down the opacity. 43% works well in this particular example. Once again, because I want to draw the viewer's eye to the main subject I need to mask the effect. Go to Masks and paint away the effect with black brush outside of the main subject (you can also achieve this action by inverting the mask and painting with white over the main subject). Don't forget to feather again, stick to 1-2px

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=7.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/7.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

4. Stamp the layers again. Now I sharpen the image a bit, this will also add slight pop to the subject. I am going with Smart Sharpen which can be found in Filter menu. Keep it low and natural. For people a radius around 2-3px works great with low amount, I also add more pop with ticking More Accurate (this is called Creative Sharpening)
Once again we need to mask the effect of sharpening so that it doesn't affect the background. As I already have the mask ready in the previous layer, all I need to do is copy it. Click and Drag the mask onto the sharpening layer pressing Alt.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=8.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/8.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

5. I am going to add a bit more pop to the subject by adding more saturation to the blue tones. I click on Adjustments and add a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=9.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/9.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Photoshop allows you to specifically target certain tones, which can be done by clicking on target adjustment tool (looks like a hand with arrows). I then click with the eyedropper on the blue tone in the photo and adjust the saturation to my liking. Once again I need to limit the effect to the main subject, so I copy the mask again by Click and Drag + Alt.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=10.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/10.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

At this point I am pretty satisfied with the photo, so I just flatten and save it as Jpeg or Tiff file. If you want to keep the layers and use it in future you can save the file as PSD photoshop file without flattening layers first.

So here is the before/after

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/?action=view&amp;current=11.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i360/Scapevision/11.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

The difference is very subtle, but the small details is usually what makes a big difference. You can always go overboard or tone it down. That's the beauty of working with layers. Keep in mind the image was shot at ISO 1600 on a APS-C sensor with available light, no flash. Play around and enjoy.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 2:54 am 
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thanks for this tip PE.... it sure is helpful... :)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 3:25 pm 
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I thought with just having got CS5 and LR3 this would have been handy, but too many pictures do not download well out here in the sticks on dial-up.

Guess I'll have to go buy a book and learn the old fashioned way,


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 12:07 am 
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im impress...


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 12:30 am 
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Thanks guys for sharing some post-processing technique and contributing to the forum. :D


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:26 am 
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StE823 wrote:
im impress...


Dude, you've done some pretty slick stuff, post up! :D

Bosscat, I'm at a loss at what to suggest if a thread like this is too much to load. Youtube tutorials sure ain't gonna be better.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 3:06 am 
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ions wrote:
StE823 wrote:
im impress...


Dude, you've done some pretty slick stuff, post up! :D

lol thx! starting to lean towards photoshoping skills these days especially for the type of photography im getting into now

but not many people really interested to my type work here i think lol.
i'll try post some up tomorrow :)


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StE823 wrote:
ions wrote:
StE823 wrote:
im impress...


Dude, you've done some pretty slick stuff, post up! :D

lol thx! starting to lean towards photoshoping skills these days especially for the type of photography im getting into now

but not many people really interested to my type work here i think lol.
i'll try post some up tomorrow :)


Today they aren't, tomorrow they will be. You never know.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 11:13 am 
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StE823 wrote:
but not many people really interested to my type work here i think lol.
i'll try post some up tomorrow :)


Maybe not too many people shoot your type of work, but I'm sure plenty are interested. Techniques are transferable so it's good to know.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:59 pm 
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ions wrote:
Bosscat, I'm at a loss at what to suggest if a thread like this is too much to load. Youtube tutorials sure ain't gonna be better.


I'll just rock it old school out of a text book.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 2:02 pm 
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PotatoEYE wrote:
Today they aren't, tomorrow they will be. You never know.

don't worry, i have no interested at your skills at all
self bragging and spending effort for nothing is not my style either..

anyways i got quite a few emails regarding one of my lambo shot, and i just made a simple animated gif of the editing process in photoshop.. (sorry i didn't screen capture while i was working on this shot)

pretty straight forward, removing reflections... replace wheels from another car (gallardo)... and adding white lines to emphasize the curve of the lambo
side profile of this car made the PP pretty easy...
Image

final image...
Image

original... from toronto autoshow's lamborghini booth..
Image

where i stole the wheels for the murcielago..
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 2:13 pm 
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Flickr: http://goo.gl/cahhK
Nice work StE823!! What is your technique to make that fading mirror image at the bottom?


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